Documentation has moved to marlinfirmware.org.
Important: This code is intended to follow latest stable branch from official Marlin firmware, feel free to fork, but be aware I might force push this branch to keep the Sunhokey patches on top of latest stable Marlin firmware.
This branch has changes for targeting Sunhokey 2015 Prusa i3. Refer to below changes section for details.
Instructions here assume you are familiar with using your OS command line tools, you know how to use git (as you'd be using a git repository), build Arduino projects, and have somehow managed to already print some usable 3D models on your machine with stock Sunhokey firmware.
Before trying to use this firmware first backup your stock firmware (hopefully you already tested your machine is working properly after fighting with calibration).
In order to download your firmware install Avrdure (I'm using a Mac and Homebrew). This is how you'd back up your firmware flash code, only adjust your serial port:
avrdude -p m2560 -c stk500v2 -P /dev/tty.usbserial-AL00X197 -b 115200 -F -U flash:r:prusa_i3_backup.hex
And your EEPROM (persistent data), in case new firmware seems to support it:
avrdude -p m2560 -c stk500v2 -P /dev/tty.usbserial-AL00X197 -b 115200 -F -U eeprom:r:prusa_i3_backup.eep
In order to confirm the applied setting patches apply 'as is' to your machine, confirm the Configuration.h patches against your machine reading the configuration. The configuration would show in Repetier Host when you connect directly to your Prusa i3.
Alternatively, just create a .gcode file with a text editor with the `M503' text on in and and empty line following it. Then just read your machine response. Here was mine (as shown by Repetier Host):
< 8:04:47 PM: start
< 8:04:47 PM: echo: External Reset
< 8:04:47 PM: 1.0.0
< 8:04:47 PM: echo: Last Updated: May 26 2015 16:38:13 | Author: (none, default config)
< 8:04:47 PM: Compiled: May 26 2015
< 8:04:47 PM: echo: Free Memory: 3800 PlannerBufferBytes: 1232
< 8:04:47 PM: echo:Hardcoded Default Settings Loaded
< 8:04:47 PM: echo:Steps per unit:
< 8:04:47 PM: echo: M92 X80.50 Y80.50 Z405.60 E80.50
< 8:04:47 PM: echo:Maximum feedrates (mm/s):
< 8:04:47 PM: echo: M203 X100.00 Y100.00 Z5.00 E50.00
< 8:04:47 PM: echo:Maximum Acceleration (mm/s2):
< 8:04:47 PM: echo: M201 X5000 Y5000 Z90 E10000
< 8:04:47 PM: echo:Acceleration: S=acceleration, T=retract acceleration
< 8:04:47 PM: echo: M204 S950.00 T950.00
< 8:04:47 PM: echo:Advanced variables: S=Min feedrate (mm/s), T=Min travel feedrate (mm/s), B=minimum segment time (ms), X=maximum XY jerk (mm/s), Z=maximum Z jerk (mm/s), E=maximum E jerk (mm/s)
< 8:04:47 PM: echo: M205 S0.00 T0.00 B20000 X20.00 Z0.40 E5.00
< 8:04:47 PM: echo:Home offset (mm):
< 8:04:47 PM: echo: M206 X0.00 Y0.00 Z0.00
< 8:04:47 PM: echo:PID settings:
< 8:04:47 PM: echo: M301 P22.20 I1.08 D114.00
< 8:04:48 PM: https://www.sunhokey.com Machine:Prusa I3
So stock firmware was 1.0.0 as displayed above, built on May 26th 2015 (just before shipping!).
-
Hiboson's Sunhokey Prusa i3 videos. There are few differences on the machine he builds compared to May/2015 Sunhokey's. Anyway, the videos shipped with the machine skipped some important parts like how to mount the control board (anyway, get some PCB spacers for this) or how to attach the Y axis belt.
-
Thingiverse Sunhokey 3D printer owners. Keep an eye on the improvements other guys are doing.
From my build experience (start of Jun/2015), first 3d printer contact actually:
-
Sunhokey videos are hard to follow for correct pieces orientation, take a good look to shape features.
-
Missing MKS v1.1 board mounting instructions, check Hibobon's videos and forums. GIYF.
-
It's likely your aluminum bed would be bent, if you find a way to avoid a glass bed please let me know. Initially I'm using a two dollars frame glass from Home Depot (+6 USD for a glass cutter because I could not get my desired), anyway, using glass is really tricky, there are some good ideas on Thingiverse if you want to avoid holding clips.
-
My extruder motor gear was about 3.5mm off (inside position), this was causing the filament to be released during printing.
-
Use stock firmware to get you started, I'm sure that if anything gets changed the Sunhokey guys would adapt it, googling around, seems customer support is not bad.
-
The shipped SD card is not compattible (speed, timing, etc) with the stock firmware, I had to use an 'old 4GB Sandisk' I had (speed 4).
-
Get a extension cord with a switch, keep the switch near you when testing to shutdown the unit quickly before anything breaks (e.g. had you missed to connect any axis stop switch?).
-
IMPORTANT: SD card is really convenient, but something I notticed is that stopping a print without first pausing it would leave the unit in a non recoverable state (motion into out of limits). Both pause or stop won't shutdown the printing immediately though (might take 2~20 seconds).
-
Get Gym mats before attempting to level your printer, this is to dampen the conducted noise from your printer, respect your relatives (and neighbors if you live in an apartment).
-
Leveling is so damn tricky!!! This don't even attempt to print if your bed is not flat and leveled (use a metal ruler in perpendicular size position to 'see' your deformation).
-
Printing is slow, simple stuff takes couple of hours, more below. Be sure to have time before you get started.
-
Use latest 'best' slicer, there are frequent slic3r and Cura release. Sunhokey settings seem non optimal for slic3r with outdated repetier on Mac. Download latest Cura and adapt the settings from Sunhokey's configuration snapshots for Repetier, this will pay off.
-
Start with PLA filament. It sticks nicely to a 40 ~ 50 C glass bed and to blue tape.
-
Cura is awesome, start with 0.25mm layers (or maybe Repetier/Slic3r on Mac OS X is really bad, I don't know). Cura you can quicly show a printing estimate, add multiple parts (automatically positioned), and get decent results without many tweaks (use suggested defaults when in doubt, e.g. brims).
-
Autodesk Meshmixer is a nice .obj to .stl conveter.
-
My extruder steps per mm are way off the shipped values, this is not reflected in this branch, I'm keeping in my personal settings branch, but check this in your printer: if the Bowden extrusion gear diameter is 10 mm is likely your setting is about 101 ~ 102.5 steps per mm.
Changes done on top of official 1.0.2 stable branch.
Using settings from M503 gcode response (which actually match to those ones uploaded to forums for Sunhokey 2015 Prusa i3 machines.
-
MKS v1.1, (RAMPS 1.4 + Arduino ATMEGA2560)
-
Single extruder
-
Temperature thermistor sensors enabled for both extruder and bed
-
Horizontal size limited extra 5mm to account for some glass bed platform restrictions. While the shipped bed is aluminum it is not flat enough.
-
Stepper settigs matching reported configuration, along other forum posted settings (e.g. REPRAP_DISCOUNT_SMART_CONTROLLER defined, inverted Y direction, but EEPROM storage not enabled).
Refer to main Marlin firmware for core project contact information.
The current Marlin dev team consists of:
- Scott Lahteine [@thinkyhead] - English
- Andreas Hardtung [@AnHardt] - Deutsch, English
- [@Wurstnase] - Deutsch, English
- [@fmalpartida] - English, Spanish
- [@CONSULitAS] - Deutsch, English
- [@maverikou]
- Chris Palmer [@nophead]
- [@paclema]
- [@epatel]
- Erik van der Zalm [@ErikZalm]
- David Braam [@daid]
- Bernhard Kubicek [@bkubicek]
More features have been added by:
- Lampmaker,
- Bradley Feldman,
- and others...
Marlin is published under the GPL license because We believe in open development. Do not use this code in products (3D printers, CNC etc) that are closed source or are crippled by a patent.
