This repository serves as a compilation of instructions for the Keebio Iris Phoenix Edition (PE) keyboard, encompassing revisions 5 to 8. It is meant to gather all the information needed to build and configure your Keebio Iris keyboard all in one place. The original authors of all the files and documents used will be linked to in the Acknowledgements.
An important note regarding the top plate: since the top plate is responsible for holding the switches in place it is not advisable to 3D print it since the final piece could lack in rigidity and provide an unpleasant typing experience but the STL file will also be linked.
- Iris Rev. 8 Hotswap PCBs [1x kit]
- 3mm Thick Top Plate Kit [1x kit] (Not needed if printing top plate)
- Coiled USB C to USB C Cable [1x cable]
- SKUF Rubber Feet [1x 12 pack]
- Silicone Hotswap PCB Bumpers [1x 12 pack]
- 9mm Standoffs + M2 6mm Stainless Steel Screws [1x 25 pack] included with the top plate kit if bought from keebio
- Any cherry mx 5 pin style switches [56x switches]
- Any cherry mx compatible keycaps [56x keycaps]
- M3 x 16 mm screws [4x for the tenting legs]
- M3 nuts [4x for the tenting legs]
- Bottom plate [2x bottom plates]
- Middle layer [2x middle layers]
- Tenting leg [4x legs] Optional
- Tenting leg adapter [4x adapters] Optional
- Top plate [2x top plates] Optional and not recommended
- SKUF feet alignment guide [1x skuf guide] Optional to stick the SKUF rubber feet nicely under the keyboard
The printing instructions are based on a Creality Ender3 Pro and the STL files were sliced in Ultimaker Cura 5.7, modify accordingly for different printers and slicing software.
Print the bottom plate twice. Print the bottom plate once in the original orientation (left side) and then print it a second time by using the mirror function of your slicing software to print it again (right side).
- Material: PLA
- Layer Height: 0.2mm
- Infill: 20%
- Supports: None
Notes: 20% infill was used to save material and time but 100% could be adviseable since this is the frame of the keyboard and strength is important.
Print the middle layer twice. Print the middle layer once in the original orientation (left side) and then print it a second time by using the mirror function of your slicing software to print it again (right side).
- Material: PLA
- Layer Height: 0.2mm
- Infill: 20%
- Supports: 15% in zig zag pattern
Notes: Supports are required due to 90 degree overhangs. at 15% the cleanup wasn't hard at all but lower % of supports would be just fine too. As for the infill, again, 20% was used to save material and time but different patterns and % can achieve different effects if using transparent PLA. The recessed holes for the tenting kit tend to flatten out and come out slightly oval, improvements to those settings could be made to avoid this issue.
You can add all 4 legs and 4 adapters to be printed simultaneously. There is the possibilty
- Material: PLA
- Layer Height: 0.16mm
- Infill: 100%
- Supports: None
Notes: 100% infill was used to make sure that the legs and adapters were strong as they will be holding the keyboard up and taking impacts from typing.
If you do decide to print the alignment guide ideally do not use support but depending on the printer being used it might be necessary.
- Material: PLA
- Layer Height: 0.2mm
- Infill: 20%
- Supports: None
If you do decide to print the top plate, make sure to use 100% infill because otherwise the plate will lack rigidity and lead to an unpleasant typing experience.
- Material: PLA
- Layer Height: 0.2mm
- Infill: 100%
- Supports: None
Notes: 100% infill was used to make sure that the top plate will be as strong as possible.
The following instructions are for assembling the Iris with Rev. 6-8 PCBs which have hotswap sockets, for older versions of the Iris see this guide from keebio here. For the original Rev. 6-8 build guide from keebio go here
This step is only needed if you bought acrylic top plates from keebio
- Begin by carefully removing the protective film from the acrylic plate to prevent any damage.
- Peel off the film diagonally from both sides of all plates in the set.
- To compensate for the increased plate thickness, insert a 2mm buffer material between the plate and the PCB. Alternatively, repurpose the extra SKUF feet for this purpose.
- Start by inserting a few switches into the switch plate's corners, ensuring they face downwards.
- Align the switch pins with the hotswap sockets and firmly press the socket onto the switch while applying pressure to the top, ensuring a snug fit.
Maintain pressure on the hotswap socket during switch insertion to avoid ripping the hotswap socket off of the PCB during installation.
Note: Avoid inserting switches with bent pins into the hotswap socket to prevent damage.
With all switches securely in place, proceed with case assembly.
- Attach screws and standoffs to the switch plate, inserting screws through the top and attaching standoffs from the bottom.
- Add 3D printed middle layer and FLAHNS bumpers to the PCB.
- Insert an M3 nut into the middle layer from the bottom, followed by adding the leg adapter in the recessed hole with some krazy glue then use an M3 screw through the leg to secure it into the nut.
- Insert standoffs into the middle layer.
- Secure the bottom plate onto the standoffs using screws.
- Press the keycaps onto the switches' stems'.
- Using the 3D printed alignment guide stick the SKUF rubber feet under the keyboard.
To configure your keyboard you have 2 options:
- VIA Configurator recommended method
- QMK Configurator
The VIA Configurator is the recommended method because it's much easier to use and doesn't require you to reflash your keyboard to apply new keymaps. By default, the left thumb key is mapped to enter and the right thumb key is mapped to space, it's recommended to swap them around if you play video games for obvious reasons.
- Original 3D files for the keyboard case - Courtesy of Keebio
- Keyboard documentation - Courtesy of Keebio
- Original 3D files for the tenting kit - Courtesy of Dave Lehman