Medusa-Toolhead

IN BETA 3

Beta 3 Changelog:

Removed the slide in belt attachment method. You now loop around a post and ziptie the belt to itself, à la VZBot. (Pardon my french)
Much Much MUCH stiffer. Horizontal bar that holds extruder and hotend does not flex at all now.
Removed compability for the BLTouch as it is too unreliable inside a 60C enclosure.
Narrowed down the Umbilical options to:

I. Straight umbilical with strain relief.

II. Hartk Afterburner Toolhead board. (ALOT of different wiring harnesses on aliexpress made to work with this board that facilitate wiring overall)
Standardized the screw sizes.
CFD work to align the airflow from the duct better.

What is it?

EVA 2.4 replacement for the SnakeOil-XY CoreXY 3D Printer.

Designed to need the least hardware possible while still being stiff and light.

1. Toolhead

1.1 Currently supports:

Extruder:
-Sherpa Mini Extruder

Hotend:
- Dragon SF and HF
- Mosquito or NF-Crazy

Probe:
- Klicky Probe

Umbilical:
- Hartk Voron 2.4 Toolhead board
- Normal umbilical

Toolhead Board	No Toolhead Board

1.2 Cooling

Uses a modified Eva cooling duct.

1.3 Offsets

 x : -1.8 mm
 y : 76.85 mm
 z : 6.2 mm

1.4 BOM

- 1x Dragon OR Mosquito (NF-Crazy) Hotend

- 1x Fully Assembled Sherpa Mini Extruder

- 1x 3010 Fan for hotend cooling.

- 1x 5015 Fan for part cooling

- 6x M3-6mm Screw (MGN12, Umbilical)

- 7x M3-12mm Screw (Hotend Cooling Fan, Shroud, Cooling Duct, Sherpa mini mounting)

- 3x M3-25mm Screw (Cooling Duct and Fan) 

- Mounting hardware that goes with your hotend (Usually 2 or 4 M2.5 screws)

- 2x M2x10mm self tapping screws (Endstop mounting)

- 14x M3 Heatset insert M3x4mmx4mm

- OPTIONAL 1x hartk afterburner toolhead board

- 4x Zipties (Belts)
					AND
- Klicky
	- 2x M3-6mm Screw
	- 2x M3-16mm Screws
	- 2x M2-10mm self tapping screws
	- 2x M6-8mm Screw
	- 2x M3 Heatset insert M3x4mmx4mm
	- 1x Omron D2F Microswitch or similar
	- 8x 6x3mm round magnets

Assembly

2. Tensioning Idlers

Belt mounting on the toolhead itself is very simplified to save weight. You will need to print the tensioning front idlers and replace the static stock ones. This will allow you to tension the belts.

Front	Back

Bom

- 2x M5x40mm Button Head (Idler shaft)
- 2x M5 Standard Nut (Idler shaft)
- 4x M6x8mm (Mouting the idlers to the frame - Reuse the ones used to hold the old idlers in place)
- 2x M3x30mm Button Head (Tensioning Screw)
- 12x M3 Heatset insert M3x4mmx4mm

3. Klicky Probe

Currently supports Klicky probe with a custom toolhead mount and dock mount.

Toolhead Mount	Dock & Mount

4. Z Endstop

Based on the Z endstop present on Voron 3D Printers.

Acts as your z endstop and lets you use the Z Calibration tool in conjunction with the Klicky Probe, to automatically set your Z offset independently of nozzle or print surface.

SnakeOil modified version	Based on the Voron z endstop

Bom

-2x M3x2mm Button Head (Mounting to bed)
-2x M3 Standard Nut (Mounting to bed)
-1x 5mm x 25mm Steel shaft
-1x Omron D2F Microswitch or similar
-1x 20-tooth timing pulley (deflanged)

If you are having trouble taking the flange off the pulley visit the version 2.2 of the Voron repository under tools. After printing out the hub puller and using the bolts from the kit, de-flanging is very easy.

Ch4rlesB / Medusa-Toolhead